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Go to a reputable auto parts store of your choice.
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Not all brands and manufacturers of these products are the same and I personally would not trust this type of product from any place with "mart" in their name. Bearing, races, and seals are "usually" marked properly with manufacturers part numbers and can be purchased in kit form and individually.
HOW TO REPACK BOAT TRAILER BEARINGS INSTALL
With this in mind never install a new bearing against a used race, this will cause overheating due to reduced contact area. The bearing and race wear together and become a matched set so never put a used bearing back into a different location.
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Inside the hub where the bearing makes contact is whats called the race. Before packing new grease into the bearing, thoroughly clean out the old grease and check them for pitted rollers, flat spots and any signs of excessive heat. The seal is pressed in and has to be pried out to remove the inner bearing so it should never be reused. You should remove and repack your bearings and replace the inboard wheel seal. Depending on usage, I do mine every 2 years because I keep "garinion" in a seasonal slip. In regards to bearing preventive maintenance. They create a positive pressure inside the hub so that when the warm wheel hub hits the cold water at launching the water is not sucked into the hub. Keep in mind, bearing buddies do NOT lube your bearings. I'm guessing you will find it to be 1 3/4" or 2". You can either meassure the shoulder that presses into the hub or measure the inside diameter of the hub where the cap presses in. To measure your hubs for proper bearing buddies, you will need to remove one of the outboard grease caps. The caps as stated above are press fit and they do wear out after several installations. If grease is escaping from the outboard side you have a cap that is not sealing properly, probably from repetitive installations during axle bearing maintenance. The grease is held in by the wheel seal on the inboard side "back" of the hub and the grease cap or bearing buddy on the outboard side of the hub. There are 2 sets of tapered roller style bearings in each wheel. The bearings will burn up and seize resulting in the wheel passing the tow vehicle. Never install bearings dry and then pump grease in through the fitting. Also when replacing a pair of bearings the included races MUST be installed at this time.
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There is absolutly no room for error doing this as a lost wheel will be the result. If you have never packed wheel bearings, installed new bearings and races or tightened up pre-load on bearings then I VERY highly recommend you have assistance doing this. If it starts crooked pull it off and start again. I install the grease caps with a rubber mallet but a hammer will work IF you hit the cap squarely. If the cap has been hammered on crookedly it can make it out of round and cause leakage or it was one that had a fitting in it and that has fallen out. Most front hub grease caps are the hammer in type you mentioned while after market types have grease fittings in the center. If the grease is leaking out the back of the wheel hub then the rear seal is worn out or has been blown out by too much grease being pumped into the hub through the grease fitting on the bearing hub cap. There are 2 wheel bearings on each wheel and a total of 4 for your single axle trailer. The standard boat trailer wheel hub and wheel bearings are almost universally the same and are available at most Wal-Mart stores or boating stores.